“You are now leaving Amman” – Iftar in Mariyaah

Wednesday of last week, Rabia and I were invited to another Iftar with another member of Hiba’s large family. We spent the evening at Hiba’s mother’s sister’s (this distinction important in Arabic culture) beautiful house in an area a few kilometers outside of Amman. The 55 cent bus we took there took us outside of the city and Rabia and I kept looking around nervously worrying that we had taken the wrong bus or we had missed our stop, but we made it, after asking the bus driver and locals multiple questions that we couldn’t understand the answers to – they spoke a more rural type of colloquial. The ambiance of our meal was different than the previous Iftar at Hiba’s house – we ate outside where the family had planted a variety of flowers and fruit trees. And in true Arabic storytelling fashion, I will explain the most important thing first – what we ate.

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There were small bowls of salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley and mint in sauce, there was handmade tomato puree sauce that tasted delicious in rice, and another giant dish of rice with spices, raisins and grapes, there was roasted chicken and french fries and there was baked fish with salad greens. We broke their fast by each eating the traditional date, and were each handed two entire pieces of pita by Hiba’s uncle (these would be followed by two more pieces of pita).

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The couple’s oldest son lived with his wife and 8 month old girl in the apartment above his parent’s house, so there was another adorable baby for us to play with. In a house with 3 sons, (rather than Hiba’s family of 1 son and 5 daughters), it was really interesting to observe the cultural differences and similarities that exist between sons and daughters. The greeting that the 16 and 19 year old sons had to their parents when they came home, and the way they acted around their parents was entirely different than what we had seen in a family of mainly daughters, but the way the boys treated their niece was just like what we had seen in Hiba’s immediate family – all babies are treated like a sibling or even their own daughter. And on an unrelated note, I saw the little girl’s mother let her have sips of Arabic coffee at 10pm at night. No wonder so many Jordanians say they can drink a cup of coffee and fall right asleep!

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Our hostess and her granddaughter!
Our hostess and her granddaughter!

It was a great evening and I enjoyed meeting and talking to so many new people, it’s really great how much culture and understanding can be shared over a meal.

Oh, and their mother (Hiba’s aunt) made me eat about a third of the rice for the entire family by means of friendly refillings that I could not turn down. Happy Ramadan everyone!

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Meanwhile in Jordan… Independence Day

Happy Fourth of July everyone!!!!

So today, along with some of the people in my group, we decided to go take a day trip to the Baptism site. This place on the same road to the Dead Sea, but instead of descending to the lowest point on Earth, the baptism site is in the direction of Israel.

Funny story because my friends and I wanted to beat the morning rush of tourism at the site, so we got taxis to arrive at 8:00am when the Baptism site “opens,” however the ticket booth didn’t open until a half hour later and the bus promised to arrive at 9:00am made an appearance at 9:20 and finally started driving to the site at 9:40am. Well, when in Jordan.

The reason that we had to wait for a specific tourist bus is because the site where Jesus was baptized by John is less than half a kilometer away from the current Jordan river, and the border with Israel.

It was a very cool spot to see, even though it would have been more fun to get to walk around the assortment of churches built in the area around the site, ranging from Catholic to Greek Orthodox to Russian Orthodox.

The best part was definitely the actual Jordan River. It was so ridiculous to see Israel 15 feet away, across this very very narrow body of water. The river has fallen away over the years because of the dry climate and use for irrigation etc. There is a special pool in the shape of a cross built at the location that numerous scholars and religious leaders have confirmed that Jesus was baptized, but the water has fallen extremely low because this year was incredibly bad in terms of rain in Jordan. This place where the Jordan River once ran is a 5 minute walk away from the narrow piece of water that the Jordan River is today.

So now I have officially dipped my feet in and spread water from the Holy Land onto my arms.

It was quite a cool experience, and we were back by noon when I proceeded to take a four hour nap. Now it’s time to go to a cafe in Wast-Al-Beled (downtown) for dinner.

Independence Day Pilgrimage!!!!


 

My first ever (Jordanian) Iftar!

Two evenings ago, the night before my giant 2.5 hour Arabic midterm, my friend Rabia and I went to have Iftar with our language partner Hiba’s family.

If I was going to write a memoir or a book giving people advice here is the most important thing I would have to say:

Always go to Iftar, always go to Iftar in a Muslim country, and then be patient because Iftar is going to take a while.

We took a bus to an area of Amman called Marka where Hiba lives, took our shoes off at the door and then the most awesome cultural immersion I’ve had so far on this trip began. I had to speak so much Arabic to explain to this Palestinian family who I was, why I was studying Arabic, and then the biggest challenge — trying to understand their colloquial, coupled with their accents, coupled with trying to talk about spices and cooking in their kitchen.

They made a dish for us called Oozee, which was definitely the most delicious thing I’ve eaten in Jordan so far. While we waited for their mom and oldest sister to cook the food, I sat with them in their little kitchen and talked to them about studying Arabic and later studying engineering (the oldest daughter Mayzah is currently studying civil engineering), watching them broil chicken and steam peas and carrots and cook rice with a whole pepper in the pot. It is ridiculous how simple and humble Arabic cooking is but with skill and spices, the final product is an absolutely delicious surprise.
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During the wait between getting to their house around 6pm and the time of Iftar (that day it was 7:50pm) we talked to all of Hiba’s sisters, from 24 year old Mayzah, to 7 year old Raghdan, and read story books for Arab 1st and 2nd graders with 10 year old Rooah who read faster than me and Rabia combined and with perfect pronunciation, asking us “Is it clear?” after we finished every page. We also met and nannied the youngest member of Hiba’s family, her uncle’s 3 month old daughter Lema who never cried and happily sat on anyone’s lap who wanted to play with her.

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Very cool cultural note:
A lot of Arabic families live in either the same neighborhood, all right next to one another, or in Hiba’s case, in the same house. The family owns one large building where there are one or two apartments per floor. Hiba’s father was one out of 10 sons, so the building is populated by her uncles and their wives and their families. What I also learned that evening is that it’s very common for two sisters from one family to marry two brothers from another family.

It was really clear to me after that evening that family was by far the most important thing in the Arab world, and having your family close to you is the best support network that the Arabs really treasure. And having a big family (considered 6 children and up) is a very popular thing here.


 

THE FOOD

In Arabic style, the plates were set up over a piece of rolled out plastic on the floor of the living room, and Rabia and I sat down with the two oldest sisters and their mother. We broke their fast by each eating one date, and then the feast began.
The Oozee that I only saw as a pot of rice, a pan of steamed vegetables and broiled chicken, was now in a giant bowl two feet across in a pile of beautiful, colored rice with vegetables, peanuts, almonds, arranged around chicken covered in a layer of spices that was almost scarlet. There were also bowls of cucumber tomato and mint salad, bowls of yogurt, flavored rice steamed in grape leaves, another bowl of grape leaves and rice brought as a gift by one of the other family members in their building, and other things that I just can’t remember the names of, as well as bowls of soup for everyone.

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The meal, and the Oozee!

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My plate was loaded up to the brim with Oozee, salad and yogurt, and that night I accomplished an amazing feat. I finished each plate of food I was given as a guest at an Arab household. I probably gained back most of the water weight I lost from the past month that night. The meal was absolutely delicious, which is what you tell the cook after every new dish you try, assuring her that the meal she cooked was out of this world.

We went back and sat in their living room, talking about our classes in Amman, learning Arabic, and other topics while Rooah read story books and riddle books to Rabia, stopping for our questions to ask about new words (I wouldn’t pass the Arabic second grade, guys).

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French chocolates and Tea with Mint

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After conversation, we each picked a piece of chocolate out of a box of French candy, then had a round of tea, then had a second round of drinks, where I had a kind of juice that is made especially and only for Ramadan out of rose water, and then we all had slices of cake, and finally, at 11:00 pm, we ate different kinds of Katayef, fried pastries shaped like half moons, some filled with nuts and honey, and others filled with cottage cheese and sesame seeds.

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The special Ramadan Katayef

Around 11:30pm, one of Hiba’s uncles agreed to drive us back to where we live in Amman, which was another amazing favor done to us by their family.

So the moral of the story is, go to Iftar.

Hebbi Bersdaii too Yoo – 20th Birthday Part 2

Getting back from the Dead Sea really threw me back down to Earth and to the fact that my job in Jordan was primarily to learn Arabic, a lot of it and really really well. Back with all of my friends from our Dead Sea adventure, we took to our two take home tests, reading a really complicated current events article about clan-law in Jordan, learning a new set of 80 vocabulary words and writing reflection papers (in Arabic) about what we thought of the previous week’s lecture (Israeli-Palestinian relations). Needless to say, I started feeling kind of cruddy about the fact that I might spend my first minutes and hours of my third decade of life doing homework assignments, surrounded by friends who also seemed more involved in their exams and studies than my holiday.

But that thought definitely passed through my mind too soon. My apartment mates stole a plate of brownies from the kitchen fridge for me, stuck a candle in them, and headed up to the roof of our building with a bottle of wine. Even more of my friends were waiting on the roof to surprise me when we stepped out, after telling me they were too busy and sleepy in the previous hours.

No these are not our usual faces
No these are not our usual faces

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It was a stark difference between my usual midnight birthday video chat with my best friend while my parents, like clockwork, walk up the stairs with flowers and balloons singing happy birthday. This year I was climbing the stairs to the roof while wonderful, new friends sang renditions of Happy Birthday to me in Arabic and English. For Zayneb, Rabia, Molly, Aeysha, Rocio, John, Rohan and Josh, in case you end up reading this, you guys are absolutely fantastic.

The best roommates I could ask for
The best roommates I could ask for

After a day of 4.5 hours of class and having lost my voice over the weekend, I rewarded myself with a nap upon getting home and then trip-advisored restaurants in a rush (in terms of travel tips, let it be known that Yelp does not exist in Jordan). By luck, I picked a beautiful restaurant in the style of an old villa where tables stood in the courtyard among bushes of pink azalias, pretty lanterns and a fountain.
So my twentieth birthday was celebrated with giant amounts hummus, tabouleh, kebba, sambousas, kafta and of course, bread. And another shout out here for all of the people that took time out of the evening of their first school night to come celebrate, eat and talk with me. On the way home a fraction of our group stopped by a cool cafe-sports bar-bookstore called Books@Cafe which is a pretty cool place with very slow service which was another great experience.


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Thank you to everyone who wished me a Happy Birthday on Facebook, through an email, iMessage, What’s App message, SnapChat, and/or carrier pigeon. I had an awesome weekend, an amazing birthday night and a lovely dinner to celebrate it all. Thank you a hundred times to all of my Georgetown-Jordan friends; though I met them only a couple of weeks ago, they extended all of their love and friendship to me which makes me incredibly happy.

And then the biggest thank you goes out to my family, for loving me, for getting me to twenty, for supporting me more than I could ever describe and even letting me out of their tight embrace to spend my summer in Jordan.

And that was the story of how I turned twenty in the Middle East.

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